the foamy wave breaks as it lunges toward me. i lift my feet and squeeze my eyes shut and hold my board tight as the water crashes down over my head. i rub my eyes as it subsides, down by the shore. droplets of water stick to my face and my lips are salty.
a wave of blue water is growing closer and it lifts me into the air. i look up into the sky and i smile. what peace, what serenity.
i lie down, looking behind my shoulder. the wave is heading over. i start to paddle, my toes lifted on the edge of the board. i feel the power of the water take me along with it and with my arms i push up on the board, landing on one knee, using my hand to balance as i stand upright. i extend my arms and i'm doing it; i'm surfing.
well, i have a maths test tomorrow so i'd kind of better go study. bye bye, surfing. hello... maths.
by the way, the hollywood nobody series by lisa samson is, like, the best. nearly finished number four and that will be two times read. some people hate to read a book twice. me? it's just what i do. ilovetoread. unless it's something i have to read that i don't want to. that's different.
and a verse, just something to think about -- the first will be last and the last will be first. dad used to say it all the time when we were little -- still does, actually -- and i read it in the Bible today. never knew it was in the Bible. :P
hope you're days have been good. love God, love people,