It was a lot of fun.
I was kind of expecting it to be really painful and the board to drop on top of my head and hurt me so bad.
But that didn't happen. I rode to shore. Then walked back into the ocean. Then went in on my knees. And the next step? ...okay, so it took me a couple of waves until I got brave enough, because you know, I just didn't want to fall. But then I... I stood!
We didn't go out so deep. But hey, we're beginners. And surfing? So. Much. Fun.
This little kid? Um, so cute. And the guy holding the board? Let me tell you, not such an easy feat. Those boards are heavy.
I'm off to buy a surfboard.
Also to read Boyfriends, Burritos and an Ocean of Trouble because I want to keep surfing and this is close enough. Also Christy Miller because that's pretty much Surfer Territory, is it not?
PS Always wear sunscreen. My face hurts.
Ever been surfing? Pro surfer? Who's your favourite surfer? Me, my surfing knowledge doesn't go past Bethany Hamilton and Kelly Slatter. I don't even know who Kelly Slatter is -- I just know that he's a surfer.
I'm tired, so I'm going now. The screen is kind of making my eyes hurt. And my face is still sore. Seriously, it's worth it -- SUN SCREEN! I mean, here I was, before we started, the one saying, "Slip slop slap!"
Yeah, well. I'm just letting you learn from my experience. :)
But it was a really fun day and oh, I was about to say that I'm going to read Pride and Prejudice, when I realized I've already got two books on the list.. nah, Jane Austen it is -- I'm already halfway through. The surfer books can wait. I wouldn't want to get too excited.
Can't wait to surf again, though. What fun.
“Here is a simple, rule-of-thumb guide for behavior: Ask yourself what you want people to do for you, then grab the initiative and do it for them. Add up God's Law and Prophets and this is what you get." Matthew 7:12 MSG
Surf's up, dude!
Ooh, yes. In a Christy Miller book, some of the surfer dude's are speaking their surfer talk, and they say, well something like, "Naw, that dude totally blew chunks, dude!"
Of course of my friends translated that into, "I was totally eating blue chunks," *snorts* so we were saying that, you know, because using surfer slang while surfing is totally cool -- and not understanding why people gave us funny looks...
Yeah, turns out "blowing chunks" means throwing up.
So, another piece of advice; don't shout out that you're blowing, or eating, chunks. And unless you just consumed a blueberry smoothie, your vomit isn't blue. No matter what your friends say. Disgusting, yes. But I really just had to share that to spare you the humilation.